A small storefront less than a block from Houston in the East Village, V-Nam is somewhere you could walk by time and again without noticing. Next time, take notice, and head to the counter inside the four table space. Order the beef bánh mì with medium spice - the spiciest option comes with Thai chilis that overwhelm the juicy meat and vinegary vegetables - and grab a counter seat in the window with a Vietnamese iced coffee.
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