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NYC

Review

Gage and Tollner

Written by

If Gage & Tollner in Downtown Brooklyn feels like a relic of old New York, that’s because it is. The restaurant opened in ​​1892, became a Wendy’s in 2004, then reopened in 2020. The atmosphere is what makes the place—the dining room is full of floor-to-ceiling windows, there’s a revolving door from the original construction, and the bar up front is the perfect place to have a solo martini and some snacks.

Unless you have some wealthy relatives in town, Gage & Tollner is a place where you should stick with cocktails and snacks. The larger entrees, like a steak that would benefit from some finishing salt and a pot pie whose pastry can’t hold up to the soupy filling, tend to lack finesse. But a round of clams casino with spicy kimchi butter or a plate of devils on horseback will enhance any high-end date night or outing with a friend.

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