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Noah Devereaux

The Four Horsemen

Noah Devereaux

When you’re young, your time gets sorted into categories. School time, homework time, karate time, Nintendo time. RIP Nintendo time, we’ll tell our kids about you when they’re playing with their iPhone XXVIs.

But when you enter the real world, all those clear categories go away. You’re left with working, sleeping, and something in between those things to keep you from losing your mind. Which means it might be time to look for a new extracurricular. Something that you’ll actually want to stick with, unlike the oboe.

Have dinner at The Four Horsemen, and there’s a good chance you’ll decide that wine should become that extracurricular. Not just drinking it (although mostly drinking it) - but becoming the sort of person that knows a little bit about it.

If wine school doesn’t sound all that exciting to you, know that at The Four Horsemen, your class is dinner and drinking, and your classroom is a tiny little spot filled with people who look like they’re in bands you don’t know but should. Coincidentally (or not), this place is partially owned by James Murphy - the LCD Soundsystem James Murphy. While there are probably tourists who come in here looking for him (or because they saw it on Master Of None), the crowd mostly feels like people who are here often. The space is half bar and half dining room, low-lit, always packed, and covered in the kind of light wood that makes you think for a second about that trip to Scandinavia you still want to take.

The Four Horsemen focuses on natural wine, and if that’s simply a buzzword to you, know that it basically means it’s been made by smaller producers, without too many added chemicals or high-tech machines, and that it’s likely to taste a bit funkier than your standard $12 bottle of Pinot. No matter how busy the place is, or how many band members are at the other five tables around you, the people working here will happily walk you through the list and help you find something you’ll like. You’ll want to stay here long enough to keep trying them. You know, all in the sake of learning.

You could easily spend a whole night here just trying wine, but the food is what will make you want to come back. Like most wine bars, there’s cheese and charcuterie and olives and even homemade bread and butter. But we rarely even eat those things (except the bread), because there’s so much other good stuff: raw and cured fish with interesting toppings like fennel and Thai basil and roe, clam toast with pancetta, ribs with plum glaze, and an excellent plate of fried potatoes.

So the next time you have some free time on a Saturday, and you start panicking about what it means that you have free time on a Saturday, come to The Four Horsemen. It works for dates, for friends, and for just being alone. Get a glass of wine and a couple plates of food in front of you, and you’ll have found your new extracurricular.

Food Rundown

Warm Bread, Cultured Butter

They are very serious about their bread at The Four Horsemen. You should be too.

Crispy Potatoes

A little pile of lightly fried potatoes, with large spoonfuls of aioli and tomato chipotle sauce. This is their version of patatas bravas, and it needs to be on your table.

Montauk Fluke

Almost half the menu at The Four Horsemen is raw and cured fish. That should be your cue to get involved. This fluke is sitting in Thai basil sauce, and it’s fantastic.

Beef Tartare

The menu here changes frequently, but the beef tartare never goes away. There’s a reason for that.

Butter Beans

See those beans? No? Exactly. Because The Four Horseman understands how to make vegetables you are extremely excited to eat. It involves cheese.

Potato Gnocchi

This is like every alfredo pasta you ever ordered as a kid, only approximately 4 million times better. It has something to do with the gnocchi and something to do with the fried shallots and a lot to do with the butter. It’s mostly about the butter.

St. Louis Ribs

When we say “wine bar” you say “ribs.” Oh wait. No you don’t. Which is all the more reason for you to get them here. Eating a fantastic rib while drinking fancy wine is a thing you deserve.

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