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Review

Uchi

££££
Written by

London is the capital of England and the United Kingdom. The UK is an island that’s between the North and Atlantic Seas. In the sea, there’s loads of fish. We’ve got two seas. So, all our fish-based food should be good right? As we’re the capital of two seas? Wrong. You’re wrong. Despite being sea lords, our sushi is mostly either good or terrible. There are few middle grounds. 90% of Londoners probably eat sushi they’ve bought in a train station. A train station without any water features.

There are anomalies though, and Uchi is one of them. It’s off the Lower Clapton Road, which is hardly Billingsgate, and it’s turning out solid Japanese fare in its own quietly confident way. The menu is small, which is reassuring - sushi, yakitori, karaage, and tempura - but the room is large. It’s basically a big izakaya. You’ll sit on a wooden stool, hear the reassuring clink of your Asahi on the industrial metal tables and order a load of sashimi, nigiri and sushi rolls. It’s all nice. The fish here isn’t the isn’t the rarest or most extravagantly presented, but that’s not what Uchi is about. It does simple things well with good produce at a reasonable price. And it’s exactly what London needs more of.

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