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Review

Theo’s Pizzeria

££££
Written by

You can’t talk about pizza in London without mentioning two things: tubs of garlic and herb sauce, and also Theo’s pizzeria. This south London spot first made its name in Camberwell by making chewy Neapolitan numbers that you’d smother in their famous condiment (that chilli sauce), all at a price that’s in, around, or under £10. The good news is that their Elephant and Castle location is no different, apart from being bigger, glassier, and conveniently located two minutes from the tube.

Though Theo’s is best known for its pizza and cups of chilli sauce combo, it’s actually the other bits on the menu that make it better than other pizzerias in the city. For example, the lunchtime aubergine parmigiana is one of the biggest and sauciest wedges of food you can get for £5 in London. Technically it’s an antipasti, but this thing feels (and tastes) more like one part of a placating meal that Carmela Soprano would serve Tony. Basically, it’ll subdue, stuff, and satisfy anyone.

A fiver goes a long way at Theo’s and at lunchtime you’ll have a choice of three or four panuozzos - crispy pizza dough sandwiches - filled with things like aubergine, salami, or our personal favourite: tuna and mozzarella. Yes, it’s a pizza-sandwich-tuna-melt hybrid. The menu switches up a little at dinner in that the sandwiches are replaced by a bigger selection of pizzas, but the same bang for your buck mentality very much remains.

If we were any good at maths we’d write a formula about how value + dough + chilli sauce = unequivocal happiness, and there’s no doubt that Theo’s has worked this out. Even though this location is less romantic and intimate than the original, it’s more practical. As good on the way back from work as it is for date night. A delicious combination of consistency and good value that’s practically unheard of in London.

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