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Review

Jacquelyn Trezzo

Good Fortune

$$$$
Written by
Jacquelyn Trezzo

Some people are never afraid to change up their style. They’ll go to a party with brand new bangs (and not adjust them self consciously the entire night), or wear a fedora with zero explanation when they meet you for coffee. There might be the occasional failure (those dolphin-skin boots were… problematic), but at least they keep it interesting - just like Good Fortune does in Logan Square.

This low-key neighborhood spot is cute and dark with a busy bar area playing Hall and Oates or the Eagles, and a small upstairs dining room overlooking an open kitchen. But even though this place feels as casual as a pair of Converse, the menu is full of Louboutin heels - like a brightly acidic arctic char with sesame jam and carrot ponzu, or handmade pansotti with tender rabbit and foie gras butter. In other words, it’s more upscale than what you’d expect to find at the Brown Elephant.

Jack Li

And while the food at some similar places is as predictable as Lisa Simpson’s dress, Good Fortune switches it up. One day, you might find a really good ribeye with bone marrow and a crispy cromesquis, while on another it’s replaced with striploin and sausage. And like that time Malibu Stacy got a new hat, even menu staples like the caramelized halloumi frequently change their accessories. If you’re not a fan of the pickled peaches and za’atar that come with it the first time you eat here, the next time it could be served with roasted figs and harissa yogurt - which is the best, so please contact your congressman to keep it on the menu.

Like those DIY Betty Page bangs, some ideas just don’t work out. The black garlic rigatoni looks cool (it’s very shiny, and reminds us of the gimp’s costume from American Horror Story), but the bland mushroom conserva it’s served with is as unmemorable as that Door County t-shirt that ended up in your closet somehow. And the bowl of roasted prawns with octopus, sausage, lentils, and piperade is an overcooked mess with shellfish oil muddling all the flavors together.

But bad ideas don’t last forever, and bangs will eventually grow out - so on the next visit, they’ll be replaced with something better. And considering that it took us six months to work up the courage to leave the house in a jumpsuit, we appreciate that Good Fortune even makes an effort.

Food Rundown

If you’ve read this far, then you already know that the food here changes often. But below are a few examples of what you can expect.

Arctic Char

This is ceviche and one of the best things we’ve had here. Raw pieces of lime-cured fish bathe in a sweet carrot ponzu that balances out the tartness of the citrusy fish.

Oven-Roasted Romanesco

The romanesco is nicely charred, the salsa rossa adds some acid, and there’s a great heat level thanks to some ancho chili oil. That’s all great, but the most important thing to know is that it’s all covered in cheese.

Caramelized Halloumi

How much we like the halloumi can vary based on the setup, but we always order it. Our favorite combo was the one with roasted figs and pickled grapes on top of a spicy harissa yogurt. But one issue this dish has is that the halloumi is often overcooked and dry.

Black Garlic Rigatoni

There are usually three pastas on the menu, and the black garlic rigatoni is always one of them. We’re not fans of the bland mushroom conserva it’s tossed with, and when it’s coupled with pieces of rutabaga, there’s just way too much funk happening.

Rabbit Pansotti

This pasta is proof that Good Fortune is capable of great things. The rabbit-filled pansotti is al dente and tossed with foie gras butter that adds richness without feeling heavy. Crispy sunchokes give it texture, and the roasted parsnips will make you wonder why you don’t eat more parsnips.

Crispy Half Chicken

One of the rare instances where the chicken is actually a must order. The meat is juicy, and the skin is as crispy as advertised. Plus, the accompaniments - either a jus or an apple dumpling - are a nice surprise that pulls the dish together.

Roasted Prawns

These roasted prawns are just unpleasant. The octopus is so charred that it looks like it was discovered in Pompei, and the shrimp is rubbery. Plus, the addition of shellfish oil makes the lentils and piperade very fishy and heavy.

Pork Collar

A perfectly fine piece of pork with potatoes, shishito peppers, and a salsa verde. You will eat this pork collar and tell exactly no one about it after you leave the restaurant.

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